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Germany

how to avoid the tourist trap at neuschwanstein castle

Kate ParrishComment


A LITTLE BACKGROUND:
this castle is straight up crazy. built on the side of a mountain deep in the german countryside, the 19th century romanesque revival palace was commissioned by king ludwig II of bavaria as a retreat, paid for out of his personal fortune [and other controversial ways]. we actually really enjoyed learning more about the king, they knew very little about him and what they did know can be read in more detail here. after his death in 1886 the castle was immediately opened to the paying public and since then more than 61 million people have visited here. 

GETTING THERE:
we rented a car out of munich, as we wanted the flexibility to stop along the way and it was cheaper than 2 train tickets. there are buses and tours running what seems like hourly – but i don't think this is the route you want to take. the tour groups seem very forced and crowded – i get anxiety just thinking about it. [car rental: $40 for the day and $6 for parking]

HOW TO AVOID THE TOURIST GROUPS:
when we read that there are over 1.3 million visitors per year, we were a bit hesitant to spend our time and money getting there to see it. [in the summer time this number gets up to almost 6,000 a day!] luckily, we were there in the winter and technical off season – but what's important to know, is that you can actually avoid 98% of the tourists by just getting a little active. if you take the time to hike up the trail, there are stunning views of the castle with absolutely no tourists. the only other people we encountered was a couple painting the castle with watercolors – my kind of crowd. 

GOING INSIDE:
we pictured the inside looking like your average stone-y castle and questioned whether paying to enter would be worth it. we often don't pay to go inside places unless it really feels right – because we're on a budget and it can be a waste of time. BUT, the inside of this place is EXTRAVAGANT and crazy and absolutely worth it. if you have time after the short hike, going on the inside tour is pretty nuts. you're not allowed to take photos, but a quick google image search will leave you inspired. 
 


^^ on the way home we stopped to try a local beer and cream cake... another perk to having your own means of transportation! 


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mini travel guide: munich, germany

Kate ParrishComment


BERLIN VS. MUNICH
earlier this year we visited our friends in berlin, a city notoriously known for it’s history, energy, creative culture and wild party scene [ check out our city guide here ]. munich on the other hand, quite honestly was never really on my radar. i had only heard tales of oktoberfest and mainly pictured lots of pretzels, lederhosen and steins of beer. opposite berlin in many ways, the city is more known for being the capital of bavaria, fairly strict, very clean, economically strong, and of course biergartens a plenty. i hadn't heard people rave about it nearly as much – that being said, we absolutely loved every minute of our time here and found it to be the most underrated western european city we visited. 

MUNICH HOLDS ON TO A COZY SMALL TOWN VIBE
with its charming old town and medieval, gothic & baroque buildings – it really puts on an impressive architecture tour. munich oozes with history and tradition, yet the war was far kinder on their 16th century buildings compared to most of germany. the creative scene here is strong  and growing, too. from interesting museums to concept stores to unique bars & restaurants, we are lucky enough to know some locals that gave us the insider's tour.

another huge perk for munich is their proximity to the alps and northern italy, both only a couple hours by car. on a clear day you can see the alps behind the skyline and the mountain culture is a big part of bavarian tradition. i immediately knew this would not be my last visit to this cool city and i am already looking forward to coming back.

SCROLL DOWN FOR OUR MINI TRAVEL GUIDE
 


CAFES

  • cafe kosmos right next to the central metro station (Hauptbahnhof) and usually packed with locals grabbing drinks after work. 
  • hoover & floyd Had cake here - supes coz
  • cafe vorholzer great views of the city and is actually on the rooftop of a university building. it's amazing!
  • schumann’s tagesbar OG cafe and long time local's favorite. great for morning coffee or an afternoon meal on their sunny terrace. 

BIERGARTENS & OTHER DRINKS:

  • biergarten viktualienmarkt an absolute must – in the middle of it all and so so cozy. the currywurst (pictured) is out of this world!
  • augustiner-keller biergarten with towering chestnut trees and outdoor seating for almost 5,000 people and many  lederhosen-clad locals eager to imbibe late into the night.
  • hey luigi candlelit tables and great gin options. great vibes here and some of the best cocktails in town.
  • waldwirtschaft 20 minutes south of city center, is this outdoor biergarten overlooking the valley and river with live jazz in the warmer months and the best spare ribs in town.
  • goldene bar coffee, cocktails, meals or cakes... this place is awesome and one of our favorite stops. the coziest place to hang and relax, it’s right next to the surfing river, so i'd stop here before or after.

EAT

  • dallmayr huge indoor market that has really good local delicacies. if the weather is bad, then this is a great place to stay inside and explore. there is a munich eataly now too and it's amazing! 
  • königsquelle classic interior with a cozy outside patio, known for a really good schnitzel.
  • fei scho vietnamese with a bavarian twist – very funky, hip and good!
  • nudo italian fusion spot serving really good homemade dishes. great for lunch or a place to start your evening.
  • pommes boutique typical belgian fries along with a long list of sauce choices and an organic currywurst that is delish.
  • jodlerwirt kitschy bavarian bar & restaurant that has live music often and fun atmosphere for group dinners.
  • super danke! creative juice and smoothie  shop with a couple locations around town.

* the metro system is very reliable and the best way to get around, they also have uber which is convenient too. 
 


EXPLORE

  • englischer garten their equivalent of central park, but not as pretty in the winter months. There is an outdoor biergarten here called the seehaus which is pretty to sit at and have a beer on a warm day.
  • lenbachhaus & brandhorst two really great museums with really cool exhibits, some modern and older stuff too. Munich has a few world reknown museums (alte pinakothek, deutsches museum, etc) but depending on your taste, you may find the older ones a bit boring.
  • müller´sches volksbad a really nice bath house in a beautiful old building and area along the isar river.
  • vikktualienmarkt daily food market and square, developed from an original farmers' market into a popular market for gourmets and more.
  • eisbach the famous surfing river and you will find surfers here year round. can't leave without checking this out! 
  • hike from schliersee to tegernsee take a 90 minute train (or rent a car) to the small village of schliersee and hike from lake to lake in the alps. it is beautiful and both towns are very cute.
  • neuschwanstein castle ~2 hours by car or train, our next post will explain our visit here in more detail 
  • christmas market: if you're visiting in the winter time, this is a must. read more about our 4 favorite european christmas markets here

HISTORY

  • marienplatz the city's main square and where you can see the famous rathaus building.
  • st. peter’s church munich's oldest church – climb the 306 stairs on a sunny day for some of the city's best city views.
  • nymphenburg palace  200-hectare palace estate with ornate design, symmetrical baroque gardens and lots of history.

 


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4 cozy european christmas markets

Kate Parrish2 Comments

joyous noel from switzerland! chistmas in europe is the most festive thing i've ever seen.

with no thanksgiving holiday, the christmas markets here start around mid-november which gives a whole lot of time to enjoy the christmas spirit. most city's main squares are covered in tiny wooden shops featuring craftsman, christmas decorations, local foods {meats & sweets}, holiday beverages [for children and adults], beautiful lights, decorated trees, live music, and always happy vibes. packed with tourists and locals alike, every night of the week is lively and gives you good reason to brave the cold winter temps. here are a few of the our favorite christmas markets:

1. VIENNA, austria 


for more info on the vienna holiday markets, click here

 

2. MUNICH, germany 


for more info on the munich christmas markets, click here

 


3. BUDAPEST, hungary 


for more information on budapest christmas markets, click here

 

4. KRAKOW, poland


for more information on the krakow christmas markets, click here

schnitzel spaetzle and schöneberg

Kate Parrish2 Comments


our next few days were spent exploring the whole city. our friends are native west berliners and live in the awesome schöneberg neighborhood. it was really cool to see the city and its history through their action packed itinerary. we continued to do a mix of touristy, hipstery [sigh] but mostly local-y fun things. we had great weather [sunny and not too hot], tried so many different types of food, met up with another friend from TAO and saw her epic new apartment [the apartments in berlin are out of this world!], got the transit system down and wished for a bit more time in this fun city. 

QUICK FAVORITES TO EAT AND DRINK:

  • YAAM beach club for drinks after a long bike ride
  • prinzessinnengarten biergarten: this urban garden also includes local food trucks, drinks and true biergarten vibe
  • roamers coffee and booze cafe [they have tasty food, too]
  • ORA bar right in oranienplatz (kreuzberg), inside an old pharmacy is a super cozy bar/restaurant. only basic cocktails are available before 6pm, after, the craft cocktail bartender arrives. the interior reminds me of this spot in austin! there are also a lot of other cool bars in this area if you have time to wander around 
  • thai park [preussen park]: homecooked thai food served farmers market style 
  • district moi saigon street food, fun for dinner. sit on the patio
  • 36 curry das original aus berlin : if german pork sausage and curry ketchup interests you

QUICK FAVORITES TO EXPLORE:

  • biking berlin: the city is flat and easy to navigate which makes it perfect for two wheels
  • kreuzberg neighborhood: very fun area to wander around
  • boat ride along the spree river [BYO alcohol if you can be somewhat discreet about it!]
  • 25 hours hotel: grab coffee, shop or have a cocktail at their monkey bar [overlooking the monkeys in the berlin zoo] 
  • tempelhof field the famous west berlin airfield has become the city’s biggest urban park, great to hang in the summer and see the history of the buildings
  • visit a proper kneipen: julian is local expert on some of the best in town. these german 'working man clubs' are somewhat of a dying breed, but hold so much history as some places have been open 50+ years and used to be the center gathering spot for each neighborhood. think, a dive bar, but better. the guys ended up at this one every night, an old favorite of david bowie's when he lived here

stay tuned for the full travel guide coming soon! 
 

welcome to berlin

Kate Parrish2 Comments


berlin has been on our list for a while now – after hearing stories from friends that have visited and meeting locals, i was so intrigued by the mix of history, old and new architecture, art, music, food, bier, nightlife and just overall "vibes" that i'd heard so many people rave about. neither of us had ever been to germany, and after meeting julian and coco on tao philippines, they offered to let us stay in their guest room the next time we were in europe. we decided to take them up on it! and i'm so happy we did. it was so fun to not only stay with locals, but to hear more about the city from their point of view, and get a true local's tour blended in with some of the research we had done on our own. 

we arrived on a thursday and dropped our bags before having a somewhat "touristy" day seeing a lot of the historic spots. before arriving we had heavily brushed up our research on the history of berlin and were enamored with learning everything we could about WWII, hitler, prussia, nazi germany, soviet communism, the wall and well... so much more. you can just feel the history walking through the streets, and we couldn't get enough.

some of our favorite stops in central berlin include:

  • brandenburg gate 
  • museum island & the holocaust memorial
  • berlin wall memorial
  • checkpoint charlie 
  • the reichstag
  • tempelhof field

later we went to our home for the weekend and had a delicious home cooked meal & caught up with our friends. we also spent the evening mapping out the rest of our visit – below are just a few photos from around the city. more to come!