BUENOS AIRES, ARGENTINA | TRAVEL GUIDE
- It is a huge city so don’t stretch yourself too thin or you will be in traffic lodged taxis for half the day. Spend time getting to know an area and prioritize accordingly with how much time you have. STEAK & WINE, so cheap and so good.
- Palermo is where we stayed, and it is a wonderful neighborhood. Cobble stoned streets, great restaurants, good vibes, ivy vine covered walls, and so on. It is well known, but for a good reason and there plenty of new places popping up.
WORDS TO KNOW:
Parrilla [pronounced parishza] Translates to both steakhouse & the actual grill.
Bodegones Classic BA neighborhood eateries serving local comfort foods like grilled meats, pastas, and beef or chicken Milanese with potato purée.
Asado Barbecue, also the shortened term for tira de asado, short or long ribs.
Porteños People who live in BA , "the port city".
Puerta Cerrada Closed door restaurant, by reservation only, generally in the chef's home. Often a fixed tasting menu is served, and tables are communal.
Alfajores Well known cookie sandwich all over Latin America, their version of a macaroon. Mainly associated with the cafe culture of Buenos Aires and very popular around Christmas.
Faena Hotel If you are ballin’ then this place is a very cool 5 star hotel. The pool is the best and it is the place to see and be seen for BA socialites. Known for it’s modern architecture.
Four Seasons You may not want to stay here, we only visited their pool which is great for the summer – overlooking the historic La Mansión.
Bartola Cool cafe, always has a good crowd, outdoor patio and great for people watching. (2 locations: Palermo Soho & Palermo Hollywood)
Oui Oui French cafe and bakery on a cute corner street. Great for a cheap and easy morning snack with an ambiance. (Palermo)
Don Julio Great parilla, simple and well done - locals favorite for dinner. Great wine menu as well. Order the goat cheese provoleta - cooked on the grill to form a crackling crusty exterior - plus the mollejas, veal sweetbreads. (Palermo) **lunch or dinner
Bar El Federal Historical landmark dating back to 1864, go here for an afternoon aperitivo. The wood bar and stained glass are worth seeing alone, fit in with locals by ordering a fernet & coke with a charcuterie plate. (San Telmo)
La Cocina The place to go for the staple Argentine empanadas. Order the ‘carne picante’ (spicy beef). Great for a snack before or after visiting the Recoleta cemetery.
El Obrero A Buenos Aires institution, a downbeat neighborhood parilla that does ‘simple’ very well and became wildly popular for it. Sporting memorabilia adorns the walls, the place to go before walking to the Boca Futbol game. Get a cab to and from here as the neighborhood nearby can be sketch. (La Boca)
Bar Isabel Going out spot for dancing and experiencing BA’s insane nightlife. Late night dinner and get reservations because space is limited. Dinner/Drinks
El Desnivel No frills steakhouse with good food in an authentic feeling restaurant. Get the chorizo sandwiches and bife de lomo ‘tenderloin steak’.
Casa Felix Amazing food experience, well known chef cooks out of his private house for you in a cool neighborhood, can't recommend this more. Must get reservations before. (Chacarita)
Pizzeria Guerrin Argentine pizza been around since 1932 and the place to try the local take on pizza, focaccia bread loaded with tomato sauce and vegetables. Great late night drinking food! (San Nicholas)
El Pobre Luis Great parrilla with generous portions, very popular with locals and futbol stars. (Belgrano)
Adorado Coffee, bakery and hip hangout. (Palermo)
Coffee Town Tiny hut in the middle of Mercado de San Telmo. Sit at the bar, grab an espresso and enjoy some of the best BA people watching. (San Telmo)
COCKTAILS | BEER | WINE
Unico Bar Burgers, beer and cocktails. Also place to go to for a fernet and coke, meet some locals. (Palermo Hollywood)
Ferona Social Club Go for a drink on the roof, a hipster cocktail bar made out of an old house. They play great old funk music too. (Palermo)
Frank’s Bar Full on speakeasy, on a quiet street in Palermo Hollywood, there is actually a small sign in front, but you would never notice it (have to use the phone booth to get in). Their dark rum you’ll want to try - Beija Flor, a rum and Campari-based punch that is a legit! (Palermo)
Floreria Atlantico Enter a secret doorway at the back of a flower shop, which is open late into the night and has a shop selling vinyl records. The drinks at this low-lit speakeasy are some of the best in the city. and the vibe is ! (Retiro)
Pain et Vin Explore Argentina’s exploding wine scene here with a tasting or just an afternoon glass. Obv famous for their Malbecs, but other good Argentina wines: Pinots from Patagonia, Torrontés from Salta, & Cabernet Franc from Mendoza. (Palermo)
Camping Great new biergarten to spend a sunny day with steins and bites.
878 Bar Behind an unmarked door on a relatively quiet street, you'll find this former speakeasy, now all above board, with heaps of character. Great cocktails and dimly lit bar. (Villa Crespo)
Milion Super cool, gorgeous old mansion turned into a bar/restaurant. Great for sunset cocktails in the back patio. Need reservations for dinner. (Recoleta)
Recoleta Cemetery An absolute must when in BA, famous for it’s impressive mausoleums and vaults. Many important historical figures buried here like Evita!
Libros de Pasaje Warm, dimly lit bookstore with a tucked away cafe in the back. Lots of great literature and records to peruse. (Palermo)
Feria Plaza Serrano Big open area, plenty of shops and bars surrounding it - fairly touristy though (Palermo Soho)
El Viejo Almacen The most traditional Tango place in all of BA, can do dinner and a show here. Make reservations before you come.
Plaza de Mayo The focal point for all celebrations and revolutions in Argentina’s rollercoaster history of booms and busts. La Casa Rosada “The Pink House” is the executive mansion and office of the President of Argentina, it is considered one of the most emblematic buildings in BA.
La Bombonera Futbol stadium where the Boca Juniors play, one of Argentina’s most famous clubs. Futbol is life out here! (La Boca)
Caminito (street alley) Today it’s a tourist trap, but famous for the cobblestone streets, brightly painted walls and street Tango dancers all over the place. Worth it for a short stop and some photos. (La Boca)
Calle Florida Architecture fans will love the opulent, early 20th-century buildings that line this mile-long pedestrian mall. (San Nicholas)
Bike BA Recommend not trying to cover too much ground. The city is huge and it gets hectic quick. Biking around Palermo is a dream though.
Bosques de Palermo “Palermo Woods” Large Japanese garden, lush trees, a lagoon, and huge rose garden (Palermo)
Boat the Tigre Delta Get out of the craziness of BA with a boat trip into the green countryside. A popular weekend getaway for locals, the delta offers lush scenery, a relaxing atmosphere, and a chance to see another way of Argentine life. Choose between a full-day and half-day tour (4/8 hours)